Community and conflict

Our 2nd day in Amritsar – a day of 2 halves, epitomising the contrast that is India today !

Fortified by a fabulous Anglo/Indian breakfast, we set off for the Golden Temple,through the crazy, frantic, dirty streets. Entering the GT is another world – a community, where the values of respect, care, giving and service prevail. We sat cross legged, with covered heads to absorb and be part of this community. Our contribution was rolling the chapattis, sometimes rejected and then re-rolled. We improved!

Hundreds of people arrive daily offer to help – there is much to be done as the Temple provides meals all day and night for any visitor. What a production – mounds of cauliflower to be chopped, huge vats to be stirred and cooked. Lines of cross legged people,all nationalities, ages eating together. Our senses were assaulted by the smells, colours and sounds and yet the peace and serenity. What a place!

Next stop Jallianwala Bagh – the site of an atrocity committed by the Brits in 1919, whereby the troops opened fire on a large number of Indians ( between 1500 and 2000 depending on who is writing the history). It is a scene of great sadness and one of which we could only feel shame. However we spoke to many Indian people whilst there and there was no bitterness.

In fact, we definitely attained celebrity status whilst in Amritsar! Not many white tourists visit and we were often asked to pose for family photos and sometimes Cath and Sara with young men. Our days as cougars beckon!

In the afternoon we headed up to the border with Pakistan for the closing of the border ceremony. Reading before our trip had told us this is a big deal, both sides have built grandstands, the public come to watch and cheer but it is much more. We were also worried about the recent trouble between the 2 countries.

Our local guide, Hari has told us that there was music and dancing, that the crowds on both sides chant “Long live India/ Pakistan” depending on which side of the border they are on. We started to get the party atmosphere at the toll booth as we got near, hawkers selling India flags and caps in the same colours. We had front tow seats in the foreigner section. While we wait there was music, one of the soldiers acted as MC whipping up the atmosphere. A rope barrier was put up and suddenly loads of women all rushed to the road area lining up. The soldier reappeared with 6 large India flags and he gave one to each women who rushed to the barrier waving them at Pakistan. The 6 came back and the flags handed to another 6 who repeated the waving. This went on for awhile and then all the women rushed forward while Bhangra hits were played and they danced. The soldier MC then got the crowd chanting and cheering, we joined in with “Hindustan”

The women were cleared and we got down to serious bit. Various soldiers, in full dress uniform , appeared and in 2’s or small groups marched to the gates, goose-stepping the last bit and posturing at their Pakistani equivalent who had mirrored their march and gestures. Most of it was very aggressive but sometimes they shook hands as a peace gesture.

This was repeated several times, the buglers sounded the ‘last post’. The flags were lowered and with that the border was closed and the crowd dispersed. Then back to Amritsar for our last night there.

A real ‘spectacular ‘ spectacle.